Water Heater Maintenance 101: Your Annual Guide

A little maintenance now means hot showers for years to come.

I'm Justin Sims, and I've replaced a lot of water heaters that died before their time. Not because they were bad units—because they never got any maintenance.

Here's the thing: a tank water heater can last 15+ years with proper care. Without it? You're lucky to get 8-10 before corrosion, sediment, and neglect take it down.

Let me show you how to keep your water heater healthy.

Why Water Heater Maintenance Matters

**Extends lifespan:** A $1,200 water heater lasting 15 years vs. 8 years? That's real money.

**Improves efficiency:** Sediment buildup insulates the water from the heat, making your unit work harder. Translation: higher gas or electric bills.

**Prevents surprise failures:** Nothing ruins a Monday like a cold shower because your water heater died overnight.

**Maintains warranty:** Many manufacturers require annual maintenance to keep the warranty valid.

**Catches problems early:** Small issues are cheap to fix. Major failures are expensive.

Tank Water Heater Maintenance

Here's your annual to-do list for traditional tank water heaters:

1. Drain and Flush (The Big One)

Austin has hard water—high in calcium and minerals. That stuff settles at the bottom of your tank as sediment, which:

• Reduces heating efficiency
• Creates hot spots that damage the tank
• Makes rumbling, popping noises
• Shortens the unit's life

How to flush:

1. Turn off the gas or flip the breaker
2. Turn off the cold water supply valve at the top of the tank
3. Attach a garden hose to the drain valve (near the bottom)
4. Run the hose to a floor drain, outside, or into buckets
5. Open a hot water faucet somewhere in the house (releases vacuum)
6. Open the drain valve and let it flow
7. The water will be murky at first—let it run until it's clear
8. Close the drain, remove hose, turn water supply back on
9. Wait for tank to fill before turning power back on

**Tip:** If the drain valve won't open or is rusted, don't force it. Call a pro.

2. Test the Pressure Relief Valve (T&P Valve)

This valve is a critical safety device. If pressure gets too high, it releases water to prevent explosion. (Yes, water heaters can explode without this.)

How to test:

1. Place a bucket under the discharge pipe (that pipe coming from the valve)
2. Lift the lever on the valve
3. Water should release, then stop when you let go
4. If no water releases, or it keeps dripping, the valve needs replacement

**Do this annually.** A failed T&P valve is a serious hazard.

3. Inspect the Anode Rod

The anode rod is the "sacrificial lamb" of your water heater. It's a metal rod inside the tank that corrodes instead of the tank itself.

Once the rod is depleted, the tank starts corroding. This is the number one reason water heaters die.

Checking the rod:

1. Turn off power and water supply
2. Locate the hex head on top of the heater
3. Use a socket wrench to unscrew the rod
4. Pull it out and inspect

Replace if:

• Less than 1/2 inch thick in any spot
• Coated heavily with calcium
• More than 6 inches of the core wire is exposed

Replacement every 3-5 years is typical, depending on water quality.

**Note:** This can be tricky with low ceilings or tight spaces. It's one of those tasks that's DIY-possible but often easier for a pro.

4. Check the Temperature Setting

The thermostat should be set to **120°F**.

Higher than that:

• Increases scalding risk
• Wastes energy
• Accelerates sediment buildup

Lower than that:

• May allow bacteria growth
• Hot water won't be hot enough

If you've never checked it, now's the time.

5. Visual Inspection

Look around the unit for:

• Rust or corrosion on the tank or fittings
• Water at the base (sign of internal failure)
• Soot around the burner (gas units—indicates combustion issues)
• Proper venting (no gaps, disconnections, or damage)

Take note of the unit's age. Check the label—there's usually a manufacture date.

Tankless Water Heater Maintenance

Tankless units are fantastic for efficiency, but they're not maintenance-free—especially in Austin's hard water.

1. Descale the System (Critical)

Mineral buildup inside a tankless water heater reduces flow, efficiency, and eventually kills the unit. Annual descaling is non-negotiable.

The process:

1. Turn off power and gas
2. Close the hot and cold isolation valves
3. Connect hoses from a small pump to the service ports
4. Fill a bucket with white vinegar or commercial descaler
5. Pump the solution through the unit for 45-60 minutes
6. Flush with clean water
7. Reconnect normally

**Equipment needed:** A pump kit (about $150) or hire a pro who already has one.

2. Clean the Inlet Filter

There's a screen filter at the water inlet that catches debris.

1. Locate the filter (usually requires removing the inlet connection)
2. Pull it out
3. Rinse debris under water
4. Reinstall

Takes 5 minutes, prevents flow problems.

3. Check for Error Codes

Modern tankless units have digital displays. Note any error codes that appear—they indicate maintenance needs or problems.

Common codes relate to:

• Ignition issues
• Flow problems
• Scale buildup
• Venting concerns

4. Inspect Venting (Gas Units)

Make sure the vent pipe:

• Has no gaps or disconnections
• Isn't blocked by debris